mike kostyo

I know food.

Filtering by Category: Restaurants

what's in a star?

If you read Sam Sifton's review of Fishtag in last week's New York Times, you saw that he "awarded" Michael Psilakis's new restaurant zero stars, giving it a "fair" rating from the paper's additional labels of "satisfactory," "fair," and "poor" which accompany the paper's zero-star ratings. So I guess it's in the middle of the pack among the worst restaurants in New York. Maybe Sifton liked a few of the light fixtures or something.

Yet Sifton describes the restuarant as "occasionally marvelous," saying the chefs "grill striped sea bass with the best in the city" and serve a "marvelous lamb burger...that you may find yourself thinking about days later." They also prepare "some of the city’s greatest toast: grilled to smokiness, its crust giving way to a luscious interior" served with a selection of "estimable cheeses," and a choice from their "fine list of bracing whites and dry reds." They have an "excellent bruschetta," the mussels are "weird and exciting and new," and the octopus is also "estimable," with "intense and focused" flavors. You can wash it all down with some "excellent Ethiopian French-press coffee."
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